Make Ezo your canvas: master the upgraded Photo Mode tools, then dial in the perfect color grades for Kurosawa, Miike, and Watanabe modes.
Ghost of Yōtei is a virtual photographer’s dream—wind-tossed pampas grass, volcanic ridgelines, auroras, and story beats that beg to be framed. With the latest customization upgrades to Photo Mode, you now have granular control over camera, color, weather, motion, particles, subject states, and more. This guide shows you how to get the most cinematic results, then pairs composition techniques with best-in-class filter setups for each cinematic mode (Kurosawa, Miike, Watanabe).
Quick setup & what’s new
- Update first. The day‑one patch (ver. 1.006) includes a broad sweep of refinements and adds more customization features to Photo Mode, so make sure you’re current before shooting.
- How to activate Photo Mode. Tap Right on the D‑pad almost anywhere—exploration, combat, even while lining up a shot. Your last Photo Mode settings persist across sessions, and you can reset per submenu or reset all with Square (with a confirmation). There’s also auto‑focus you can toggle.
- Know your toolkit. Standout additions include Tracking Shot (record up to 16 camera positions and play with Triangle), a full 12–300 mm focal-length range, apertures from f/1.2 to f/63, robust color grades (B/W, B/W Vintage, Storm, Autumn, Samurai Red, Smoke, Maple, Ginkgo, Tintype), particles & wildlife (from leaves to Shima Enaga and red cranes), time of day & weather (including fog, sunbreaks, heavy rain/snow, thunder, and even Aurora), wind direction/speed, animated environments for cinemagraphs, character states (Hide, Muddy, Bloody), emotes, sword‑glint, aspect ratios (Standard, 21:9, 32:9), music overlays, and stamps.
Pro tip: Take five minutes to make a “base look” you love (lens, DOF, contrast, a favorite color grade), then save that state by backing out. Because Yōtei remembers your last setup, you’ll always re‑enter Photo Mode ready to shoot.
Composition that works in Yōtei (and why)
Below are field‑tested techniques mapped to the tools Yōtei gives you.
1) Design the frame with big shapes first
Before fiddling with details, step back to see triangles and diagonals (ridge lines, torii gates, fence lines). Use 21:9 to lean into widescreen geometry when the scene reads better as a letterboxed panorama. Bump contrast slightly to separate shapes.
Try this: Stand on a ridge, 24 mm, 21:9, Contrast ~1.4, Exposure −0.3 to preserve highlights. Add a smudge of fog to simplify the background.
2) Lead the eye with wind and motion
Yōtei lets you control wind speed/direction and toggle Animated Environment—perfect for cinemagraphs where leaves or birds flow through a static pose. Direct the wind toward your subject to push debris into the frame and create implied lines.
Try this: Subject in lower left; set Wind 20–30%, Direction pointing from top right to subject; Particles: Cherry Blossoms 25% for a soft stream across the image.
3) Sculpt depth with focal length & DOF
- Landscapes: Ultra‑wide (12–24 mm) exaggerates scale; keep aperture in the f/8–f/16 range for edge‑to‑edge clarity.
- Portraits: 50–80 mm flattens perspective pleasingly; go f/1.8–f/2.8 for cinematic separation.
Sony’s own tips broadly match this: wide angles for landscapes and ~35–80 mm for portraits; tweak to taste.
4) Control light like a director
Use the time‑of‑day scrubber and clouds to paint with light—harsh midday light for sharp edges, golden hour for warmth and long shadows, or heavy overcast for matte, ink‑wash scenes. Subtle Exposure and Contrast nudges (±0.3–0.7) are often all you need.
5) Embrace negative space
Yōtei’s skies and fog banks are gorgeous editorial whitespace. Place Atsu in a third, shrink her presence, and let the environment dominate. It’s especially striking in Watanabe mode with chill vibes (more below).
6) Make character the story
Use Emotes (Neutral, Intense, Hopeful, etc.) to align face/body language with the moment. If the scene calls for grit, flip Atsu: Muddy or Bloody and add Sword‑glint for that dramatic edge highlight.
7) Add micro‑drama with particles
Feathers, ash, embers, fireflies, even Shima Enaga snowbirds—each changes the micro‑texture of a shot. Keep intensity modest (10–35%) so the scene doesn’t look over‑styled. Aurora can turn night scenes into ethereal murals.
8) When in doubt, recompose
The official blog makes a great point: once you think you’re done, pan around. You’ll often discover a stronger angle 5–10 meters to the left or right that lines up the horizon, a tree, or a shrine perfectly.
The cinematic modes (and how to shoot each one)
Ghost of Yōtei offers three distinct “director” vibes: Kurosawa, Miike, and Watanabe. Kurosawa brings classic B&W texture and elevated wind; Miike tightens the camera, muddies the world, and amps up the blood; Watanabe layers in lo‑fi beats that change the mood of exploration. (They’re opt‑in: use the one that fits your scene.)
Note: Kurosawa’s stark contrast isn’t ideal for every situation—for example, visibility can suffer in deep stealth—so photograph accordingly and don’t be afraid to adjust exposure/contrast to recover shadow detail.
A) Kurosawa Mode — classic, high‑contrast storytelling
Vibe: Old‑film tonal drama, strong silhouettes, wind‑driven energy.
Best filters / grades (stackable picks):
- B/W or B/W Vintage (for a purer film look); Tintype if you want a period‑plate vibe.
- Storm can deepen skies and mid‑tones; use lightly.
Lens & DOF:
- 24–35 mm for scenic story frames; 50–80 mm for character‑focused shots. Keep aperture around f/2.8–f/5.6 for sculpted subject isolation without losing background context.
Weather & particles:
- Overcast / Heavy fog for noir; Wind 20–35% to animate cloth & flora.
- Crows or Ash & Embers amplify drama at 10–25%.
Exposure & contrast:
- Start Exposure −0.3 to −0.7; Contrast 1.6–2.2; then adjust until the subject pops without crushing shadows.
Example recipe (duel on a ridge):
- 35 mm, f/3.5, B/W Vintage, Contrast 2.0, Exposure −0.5, Overcast, Wind 30%, Crows 20%. Frame the opponent against the sky for a clean silhouette.
B) Miike Mode — visceral, intimate, muddy
Vibe: Up‑close brutality, texture on armor and mud, weighty action. (Miike mode tightens the camera and adds muddy, bloodier atmosphere.)
Best filters / grades:
- Maple to isolate reds (blood/kimono accents) and Ginkgo to spotlight yellows (lanterns, grass).
- Smoke or Storm for gritty tonal compression.
Lens & DOF:
- Work in the 50–80 mm range to compress perspective and emphasize facial grit; go f/1.8–f/2.8 for creamy separation.
Weather & particles:
- Rain / Heavy rain for sheen; add Ash & Embers 30–40% for kinetic splatter in melee.
- Toggle Atsu: Bloody, Sword‑glint ~5.0 for sharp metal highlights.
Exposure & contrast:
- Exposure 0 to −0.3 (muddy scenes look better slightly darker). Contrast 1.5–1.8 to deepen mid‑tones without choking detail.
Example recipe (alley assassination):
- 80 mm, f/2.0, Maple (intensity 55%), Storm, Heavy rain, Ash & Embers 35%, Wind 15%, Atsu: Bloody. Crop tight, subject’s eyes on the upper third.
C) Watanabe Mode — lo‑fi, chill, exploratory
Vibe: Wander‑and‑vibe; mellow beats scoring vistas and slice‑of‑life moments.
Best filters / grades:
- Autumn (warmth for late‑day hues), Vivid (punch but keep it tasteful), or Ginkgo (subtle yellow isolation for pampas grass).
Lens & DOF:
- 24 mm environmental portraits, 35–50 mm for “day in the life.” f/2.8–f/4 strikes a natural balance.
Weather & particles:
- Sunbreak or Clear with a kiss of fog at ground level; Song Birds or Shima Enaga at 10–20% for gentle motion.
Aspect ratio & music:
- 21:9 sells the road‑movie feel. Layer Music: Atsu’s Theme (or another track) into Tracking Shots to create in‑engine micro‑edits you can share.
Example recipe (morning ride through pampas):
- 35 mm, f/3.2, Autumn (45–55%), Sunbreak, Clouds low, Song Birds 15%, Wind 10–15%, 21:9. Place rider on the lower right third, horizon high for a “big sky” look.
Advanced tools you should absolutely use
Build tracking shots (the in‑engine “dolly”)
Set up to 16 camera waypoints, then hit Triangle to play them back as a moving shot—like a dolly or crane pass. Use it to create subtle “push‑ins” on statues, or sweeping arcs across a field of cranes. Pair with Watanabe Mode’s chill audio for a shot that feels editor‑ready.
Recipe: “Temple reveal”
- Start at 50 mm tight on a lantern (f/2.8).
- Waypoint 2: 35 mm, pull back.
- Waypoint 3: 24 mm, crane up and left until the temple dominates the upper half.
- Grade Vivid 35%, Sunbreak, Wind 8%, Song Birds 10%.
- Add a stamp as your “title” card; export.
Create cinemagraphs (living stills)
Turn Animated Environment ON, freeze characters using Photo Mode, then animate wind/particles—cherry blossoms tumbling as Atsu stands perfectly still, or Aurora flowing over a static camp. Keep particle intensity 10–25% so motion reads as texture, not noise.
Ten shot “recipes” you can try today
- Onryō silhouette
- Mode: Kurosawa
- Lens/DOF: 24 mm, f/4
- Grade: B/W Vintage; Contrast 2.0; Exposure −0.5
- Weather: Overcast → Heavy fog
- Particles: Crows 15%
- Framing: Atsu centered against sky, sword edge crossing horizon.
- Mud and steel
- Mode: Miike
- Lens/DOF: 80 mm, f/2.0
- Grade: Maple 50–60%
- Subject: Atsu: Bloody, Sword‑glint 4–6
- Weather: Heavy rain; Smoke as secondary grade
- Note: Crop tight; let red accents tell the story.
- Lo‑fi golden hour
- Mode: Watanabe
- Lens/DOF: 35 mm, f/3.2
- Grade: Autumn 45%
- Weather: Sunbreak, light ground fog
- Particles: Shima Enaga 15%
- Aspect: 21:9; add Music.
- Aurora watch
- Mode: Watanabe
- Lens/DOF: 24 mm, f/5.6
- Grade: Vivid 20%
- Weather/Particles: Night; Aurora; Wind 5–10%
- Tip: Put a hut or tree on a third as your anchor.
- Ink‑wash forest
- Mode: Kurosawa
- Lens/DOF: 35 mm, f/3.5
- Grade: Tintype or B/W + Storm low
- Weather: Heavy fog
- Particles: Bamboo leaves 10–15% to layer depth.
- Blade‑draw macro
- Mode: Miike
- Lens/DOF: 100–120 mm, f/1.8
- Grade: Storm + Maple 20%
- Subject: Sword edge sharp; background bokeh
- Tip: Slight Dutch angle for tension.
- Pilgrim on the road
- Mode: Watanabe
- Lens/DOF: 50 mm, f/2.8
- Grade: Ginkgo 40% (yellow grasses pop)
- Weather: Clear → Sunbreak
- Particles: Song Birds 10–15% for life.
- Shrine stairs geometry
- Mode: Kurosawa
- Lens/DOF: 24 mm, f/5.6
- Grade: B/W
- Weather: Overcast
- Tip: Align stair edges to create converging diagonals.
- Campfire monologue
- Mode: Miike or Watanabe (depends on mood)
- Lens/DOF: 50 mm, f/2.0
- Grade: Smoke (Miike) or Autumn (Watanabe)
- Particles: Ash & Embers 20–30%; Wind 10%.
- Horseback wide
- Mode: Watanabe
- Lens/DOF: 24 mm, f/4
- Grade: Vivid 25%
- Aspect: 21:9
- Tip: Keep rider small in frame—let the valley breathe.
Troubleshooting & polish
- Crushed shadows in Kurosawa? Raise Exposure +0.3 to +0.7, or reduce Contrast. The mode’s dramatic look can trade visibility for mood—balance to taste.
- Over‑processed colors? If Vivid or Autumn feel too strong, drop Intensity (20–40%) and lift Exposure slightly; small moves go far.
- Busy particles? Keep them under 30% unless the scene’s deliberately chaotic. Simpler frames read better on social feeds.
- Want motion without blur? Use Animated Environment ON and Tracking Shot at a slow crawl—leaf drift and parallax give life while your subject stays tack‑sharp.
A final word on style
Each cinematic mode nudges you toward a different photographic language:
- Kurosawa wants silhouettes, horizon discipline, and negative space—let wind and fog do the talking.
- Miike begs for texture studies—mud, rain, steel, and the pop of red via Maple.
- Watanabe rewards vibes and wandering—warm grades, birds in frame, and a 21:9 road‑movie frame with a mellow beat under it.
With the expanded customization suite—from 16‑point tracking shots to granular color grades and wildlife particles—Ghost of Yōtei’s Photo Mode is as much a creative tool as it is a pause button. Go make something worthy of a poster.
